The Nakasedo Trail: From Magome to Tsumago, Japan
A first-hand guide to hiking one of Japan's most beautiful historic trails, including how we got to Magome, where we stayed, what the trail was really like, and how we travelled with our luggage.
There are many ways to experience Japan, but some of my favourite moments from our trip were the ones that took us away from the big cities and onto the old roads between small mountain towns.
One of those days was our hike along the Nakasendo Trail from Magome to Tsumago.
The Nakasendo was one of the five major routes connecting Edo (modern-day Tokyo) with Kyoto during the Edo period. Today, one of the best-preserved and most accessible sections runs through the Kiso Valley between the former post towns of Magome and Tsumago. The walk is around 8-9 km and takes most hikers roughly 2.5-3 hours, although we took our time and made plenty of stops along the way.
For us, though, the experience started long before we reached the trail.
There are many ways to experience Japan, but some of my favourite moments from our trip were the ones that took us away from the big cities and onto the old roads between small mountain towns.
One of those days was our hike along the Nakasendo Trail from Magome to Tsumago.
The Nakasendo was one of the five major routes connecting Edo (modern-day Tokyo) with Kyoto during the Edo period. Today, one of the best-preserved and most accessible sections runs through the Kiso Valley between the former post towns of Magome and Tsumago. The walk is around 8-9 km and takes most hikers roughly 2.5-3 hours, although we took our time and made plenty of stops along the way.
For us, though, the experience started long before we reached the trail.
Why we decided to hike the Nakasendo
Our Japan itinerary was packed with very different experiences - Tokyo, Mount Fuji, the Japanese Alps, cycling the Shimanami Kaido, Koyasan and Osaka.
Between the mountains around Kawaguchiko and our next destination, Takayama, I wanted to include something completely different. The Nakasendo seemed perfect. Instead of another big attraction or a famous viewpoint, we would spend a night in a tiny historic post town and then walk through the forest along a centuries-old route. It was also a convenient way to break up our journey through central Japan.
And, honestly, the idea of staying in Magome and waking up directly on the Nakasendo sounded much more appealing to me than simply coming here as a day trip.
Our Japan itinerary was packed with very different experiences - Tokyo, Mount Fuji, the Japanese Alps, cycling the Shimanami Kaido, Koyasan and Osaka.
Between the mountains around Kawaguchiko and our next destination, Takayama, I wanted to include something completely different. The Nakasendo seemed perfect. Instead of another big attraction or a famous viewpoint, we would spend a night in a tiny historic post town and then walk through the forest along a centuries-old route. It was also a convenient way to break up our journey through central Japan.
And, honestly, the idea of staying in Magome and waking up directly on the Nakasendo sounded much more appealing to me than simply coming here as a day trip.
How we got to Magome
Getting to Magome was probably the most complicated part of the whole experience.
We were coming from Kawaguchiko, after spending time around Mount Fuji.
Our route was:
Kawaguchiko → Kofu → Shiojiri → Nakatsugawa → Magome
From Kawaguchiko, we took a bus to Kofu and then continued by train towards Shiojiri. From Shiojiri, we took the JR Chuo Line towards Nakatsugawa.
Once we arrived at Nakatsugawa Station, we decided not to continue by local bus. Instead, we took a taxi directly to our accommodation near Magome. This turned out to be a very good decision for us. After several days of travelling with luggage, the last thing we wanted was to figure out another bus connection and then walk uphill with our bags. The standard public transport option is the bus between Nakatsugawa and Magome, and Nakatsugawa is the main railway gateway for reaching Magome. But if you're travelling as a small group and have several pieces of luggage, I would seriously consider comparing the cost of a taxi with the convenience it gives you.
Where we stayed in Magome
We stayed at 峠のお宿 巧の実家 Magome Guest House, Along the Nakasendo Trail.
And this turned out to be one of the most memorable stays of our entire Japan trip. The guesthouse is actually located along the Nakasendo between Magome and Tsumago, rather than right in the middle of Magome-juku. It is only around 2 km from Magome and directly on the trail. The house itself was wonderful - spacious, comfortable, and much more modern than I expected from a place in such a remote-looking part of Japan. But what made the stay special was our host.
Our incredible host
Our host was one of those people who makes a trip unexpectedly easier. The next morning, we were going to hike from Magome towards Tsumago. Obviously, we didn't want to carry our full luggage over the trail. There is an official luggage-forwarding service between Magome and Tsumago, which is a great option for many hikers. The standard service allows luggage to be dropped off in the morning and collected at the other end later that day. But our situation was slightly different. Because we were staying at the guesthouse rather than starting directly from the tourist information centre in Magome, our host offered to take our luggage to Tsumago for us while we walked. That was incredibly kind and made the whole morning so much easier. We could leave our bags behind, take only small daypacks, and simply enjoy the trail. It was one of those little acts of hospitality that you remember long after the trip.
Getting to Magome was probably the most complicated part of the whole experience.
We were coming from Kawaguchiko, after spending time around Mount Fuji.
Our route was:
Kawaguchiko → Kofu → Shiojiri → Nakatsugawa → Magome
From Kawaguchiko, we took a bus to Kofu and then continued by train towards Shiojiri. From Shiojiri, we took the JR Chuo Line towards Nakatsugawa.
Once we arrived at Nakatsugawa Station, we decided not to continue by local bus. Instead, we took a taxi directly to our accommodation near Magome. This turned out to be a very good decision for us. After several days of travelling with luggage, the last thing we wanted was to figure out another bus connection and then walk uphill with our bags. The standard public transport option is the bus between Nakatsugawa and Magome, and Nakatsugawa is the main railway gateway for reaching Magome. But if you're travelling as a small group and have several pieces of luggage, I would seriously consider comparing the cost of a taxi with the convenience it gives you.
Where we stayed in Magome
We stayed at 峠のお宿 巧の実家 Magome Guest House, Along the Nakasendo Trail.
And this turned out to be one of the most memorable stays of our entire Japan trip. The guesthouse is actually located along the Nakasendo between Magome and Tsumago, rather than right in the middle of Magome-juku. It is only around 2 km from Magome and directly on the trail. The house itself was wonderful - spacious, comfortable, and much more modern than I expected from a place in such a remote-looking part of Japan. But what made the stay special was our host.
Our incredible host
Our host was one of those people who makes a trip unexpectedly easier. The next morning, we were going to hike from Magome towards Tsumago. Obviously, we didn't want to carry our full luggage over the trail. There is an official luggage-forwarding service between Magome and Tsumago, which is a great option for many hikers. The standard service allows luggage to be dropped off in the morning and collected at the other end later that day. But our situation was slightly different. Because we were staying at the guesthouse rather than starting directly from the tourist information centre in Magome, our host offered to take our luggage to Tsumago for us while we walked. That was incredibly kind and made the whole morning so much easier. We could leave our bags behind, take only small daypacks, and simply enjoy the trail. It was one of those little acts of hospitality that you remember long after the trip.
Hiking from Magome to Tsumago
We started the hike from the Magome side. And this is one of the reasons I would recommend walking Magome → Tsumago rather than the other way around. The trail starts with some climbing as you leave Magome and head towards Magome Pass, but after reaching the highest point, the route becomes predominantly downhill towards Tsumago. For me, this direction felt very natural. You start among the beautifully preserved buildings and stone streets of Magome, gradually leave the town behind and enter the forest. And suddenly Japan feels very different.
The forest section
The forest was probably my favourite part of the hike. The path winds through tall trees, with occasional glimpses of traditional houses and small settlements. It feels incredibly peaceful. There are also several traditional features along the route, including old stone sections, bridges, and small roadside structures. One particularly nice stop is the Ichikokutochi Tateba-jaya, a traditional tea house where hikers can rest and have tea. The route also passes the Otaki and Metaki waterfalls. These little stops are exactly what make the Nakasendo different from a conventional hiking trail. You're not simply trying to reach the finish. The journey itself is the point.
We started the hike from the Magome side. And this is one of the reasons I would recommend walking Magome → Tsumago rather than the other way around. The trail starts with some climbing as you leave Magome and head towards Magome Pass, but after reaching the highest point, the route becomes predominantly downhill towards Tsumago. For me, this direction felt very natural. You start among the beautifully preserved buildings and stone streets of Magome, gradually leave the town behind and enter the forest. And suddenly Japan feels very different.
The forest section
The forest was probably my favourite part of the hike. The path winds through tall trees, with occasional glimpses of traditional houses and small settlements. It feels incredibly peaceful. There are also several traditional features along the route, including old stone sections, bridges, and small roadside structures. One particularly nice stop is the Ichikokutochi Tateba-jaya, a traditional tea house where hikers can rest and have tea. The route also passes the Otaki and Metaki waterfalls. These little stops are exactly what make the Nakasendo different from a conventional hiking trail. You're not simply trying to reach the finish. The journey itself is the point.
What the Nakasendo Trail is actually like
The trail isn't a difficult mountain hike. You don't need technical equipment, and you don't need to be an experienced trekker. But I wouldn't describe it as simply a "walk between two villages" either.
There are:
The trail isn't a difficult mountain hike. You don't need technical equipment, and you don't need to be an experienced trekker. But I wouldn't describe it as simply a "walk between two villages" either.
There are:
- forest paths
- stone sections
- uneven ground
- wooden bridges
- small climbs and descents
- waterfalls
- rural roads
- historic buildings
- and long stretches where you're completely surrounded by trees.
The famous Nakasendo bear bells
One thing that surprised me before the hike was the presence of bear bells along the trail. You will see bells placed beside the path. The idea is simple: if you are hiking through an area where bears may be present, ringing the bell helps make your presence known. It sounds slightly dramatic when you read about it beforehand. When you're actually standing in the middle of a quiet Japanese forest and see a large bell next to the trail, though, it suddenly makes perfect sense. I definitely rang them.
Arriving in Tsumago
After several hours of walking, we eventually reached Tsumago-juku. And this was the perfect ending to the hike. Like Magome, Tsumago is a beautifully preserved post town, with traditional wooden buildings lining the old Nakasendo route. But the atmosphere felt slightly different from Magome. After spending hours in the forest, suddenly arriving among the old houses felt almost surreal. We explored Tsumago for a while before continuing with the next part of our journey. And, most importantly: our luggage was already waiting for us. Which meant we could enjoy Tsumago without dragging our suitcases around.
One thing that surprised me before the hike was the presence of bear bells along the trail. You will see bells placed beside the path. The idea is simple: if you are hiking through an area where bears may be present, ringing the bell helps make your presence known. It sounds slightly dramatic when you read about it beforehand. When you're actually standing in the middle of a quiet Japanese forest and see a large bell next to the trail, though, it suddenly makes perfect sense. I definitely rang them.
Arriving in Tsumago
After several hours of walking, we eventually reached Tsumago-juku. And this was the perfect ending to the hike. Like Magome, Tsumago is a beautifully preserved post town, with traditional wooden buildings lining the old Nakasendo route. But the atmosphere felt slightly different from Magome. After spending hours in the forest, suddenly arriving among the old houses felt almost surreal. We explored Tsumago for a while before continuing with the next part of our journey. And, most importantly: our luggage was already waiting for us. Which meant we could enjoy Tsumago without dragging our suitcases around.
How long does the Magome to Tsumago hike take?
The route is approximately 8-9 km, depending on exactly where you start and finish.
Most people take around 2.5-3 hours of walking time, but I would allow considerably longer if you want to:
Final thoughts
The Nakasendo wasn't originally the most obvious stop on our Japan itinerary. But it ended up being one of the experiences I remember most vividly. If you're travelling through central Japan and love hiking, history and quieter places, I would absolutely recommend making time for the Magome–Tsumago section. And if you can, stay overnight in Magome rather than turning the hike into a rushed day trip. Waking up in the mountains, walking out of your accommodation onto an ancient trail and spending the day moving through forests and old post towns is a very different way to experience Japan. For us, the combination of the trail, the tiny mountain towns and especially the kindness of our host made this one of the most memorable days of our trip.
Sometimes the best part of travelling isn't seeing another famous landmark. It's simply following an old road and seeing where it takes you.
The route is approximately 8-9 km, depending on exactly where you start and finish.
Most people take around 2.5-3 hours of walking time, but I would allow considerably longer if you want to:
- explore Magome;
- stop at the tea house;
- see the waterfalls;
- take photographs;
- enjoy the forest;
- and spend some time exploring Tsumago afterwards.
Final thoughts
The Nakasendo wasn't originally the most obvious stop on our Japan itinerary. But it ended up being one of the experiences I remember most vividly. If you're travelling through central Japan and love hiking, history and quieter places, I would absolutely recommend making time for the Magome–Tsumago section. And if you can, stay overnight in Magome rather than turning the hike into a rushed day trip. Waking up in the mountains, walking out of your accommodation onto an ancient trail and spending the day moving through forests and old post towns is a very different way to experience Japan. For us, the combination of the trail, the tiny mountain towns and especially the kindness of our host made this one of the most memorable days of our trip.
Sometimes the best part of travelling isn't seeing another famous landmark. It's simply following an old road and seeing where it takes you.
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