Dolomites: Ultimate Guide to Summer Hiking
Plan your ideal summer escape to the Italian Dolomites
This year, I went on an exciting journey to explore one of the most breathtaking and sought-after destinations in the world: the Dolomites. After witnessing countless videos, reading numerous articles, and hearing fascinating stories about this enchanting place, I decided to experience it for myself.
Based on my previous adventure trekking around Mont Blanc, I realized the importance of planning and early booking. In such coveted locations, accommodations tend to fill up rapidly, and the closer your travel dates, the trickier it becomes to secure a place to stay.
Upon thorough research and reflection, I arrived at a few key insights:
Based on my previous adventure trekking around Mont Blanc, I realized the importance of planning and early booking. In such coveted locations, accommodations tend to fill up rapidly, and the closer your travel dates, the trickier it becomes to secure a place to stay.
Upon thorough research and reflection, I arrived at a few key insights:
- The optimal time for a Dolomites hike is during the months of September and October. During this period, the weather remains pleasantly warm, and the tourist crowds significantly reduced compared to the summer months. This shift in visitor volume also presents a positive impact on prices. Therefore, we chose the first week of September for our expedition.
- While we initially didn't intend to rent a car, we recognized the impracticality of lugging our backpacks throughout the journey. As a result, we decided to divide our hiking adventure into two parts. Initially, we set out on a 5-day trek from one mountain refuge to another. Following this exciting wilderness experience, we moved on to a comfortable week-long stay in a charming hotel near the city of Cortina d'Ampezzo. From this centralized location, we embarked on daily excursions to explore the surrounding trails.
Things to remember
The Dolomites offer a multitude of trails, a stark contrast to the singular route around Mont Blanc. Here, you'll find a diverse variety of trekking paths, ranging in complexity from calm and straightforward trails to challenging climbing routes, known as Via Ferrata. The latter demands not only suitable equipment but also thorough preparation.
In our particular case, I opted for trails of easy and medium difficulty—ones that can be navigated with minimal preparation and without the need for specialized equipment. However, even this route requires basic physical fitness and the availability of suitable hiking gear.
Hike in the Dolomites Stage Breakdown and Overview
After all the calculations and working out the trails, our route looked like this.
The Dolomites offer a multitude of trails, a stark contrast to the singular route around Mont Blanc. Here, you'll find a diverse variety of trekking paths, ranging in complexity from calm and straightforward trails to challenging climbing routes, known as Via Ferrata. The latter demands not only suitable equipment but also thorough preparation.
In our particular case, I opted for trails of easy and medium difficulty—ones that can be navigated with minimal preparation and without the need for specialized equipment. However, even this route requires basic physical fitness and the availability of suitable hiking gear.
Hike in the Dolomites Stage Breakdown and Overview
After all the calculations and working out the trails, our route looked like this.
- Day 1: Hotel Regina, Bolzano - Rifugio Alpe di Tires
- Day 2: Rifugio Alpe di Tires - Rifugio Salei
- Day 3: Rifugio Salei - Rifugio Boe
- Day 4: Rifugio Boe - Valparola Refuge
- Day 5: Valparola Refuge - Rifugio Pomedes
- Day 6-13: Rifugio Pomedes - Cortina d'Ampezzo
Day 1
Hotel Regina, Bolzano - Rifugio Alpe di Tires
The first day typically proves to be the most demanding. The body grapples with the unfamiliar weight of the backpack, and legs adjust to the strain. Given the substantial ascent, mental readiness is key, particularly for the challenging final kilometers.
For our overnight stay, we chose the delightful Rifugio Alpe di Tires, featuring an 8-person room with shared facilities for toilet and shower on the floor. The atmosphere is pristine and well-kept, with a beautiful design and cozy rooms. While minimalistic, the setting is incredibly atmospheric. Our reservation included both dinner and breakfast, the latter being especially delicious after the demanding first day. Below, you'll find a glimpse of our dinner menu.
It's worth noting that hot water in the shower comes at an additional charge. Tokens for the shower must be purchased at the reception, with a cost of 4 euros for 3 minutes as of autumn 2023.
You can also order a picnic at the refuge for the next day, a convenient snack along the way. It usually includes a sandwich, some kind of snack, fruit and chocolate, but the menu naturally varies from refuge to refuge.
Hotel Regina, Bolzano - Rifugio Alpe di Tires
- elevation gain 1540m
- elevation loss 305m
- 10km
The first day typically proves to be the most demanding. The body grapples with the unfamiliar weight of the backpack, and legs adjust to the strain. Given the substantial ascent, mental readiness is key, particularly for the challenging final kilometers.
For our overnight stay, we chose the delightful Rifugio Alpe di Tires, featuring an 8-person room with shared facilities for toilet and shower on the floor. The atmosphere is pristine and well-kept, with a beautiful design and cozy rooms. While minimalistic, the setting is incredibly atmospheric. Our reservation included both dinner and breakfast, the latter being especially delicious after the demanding first day. Below, you'll find a glimpse of our dinner menu.
It's worth noting that hot water in the shower comes at an additional charge. Tokens for the shower must be purchased at the reception, with a cost of 4 euros for 3 minutes as of autumn 2023.
You can also order a picnic at the refuge for the next day, a convenient snack along the way. It usually includes a sandwich, some kind of snack, fruit and chocolate, but the menu naturally varies from refuge to refuge.
Day 2
Rifugio Alpe di Tires - Rifugio Salei
Our evening retreat wasn't in an ordinary mountain refuge but in a hotel catering to skiers in the winter and hikers in the summer. Remarkably, the room rate included both dinner and breakfast. The experience was a real delight, considering the modest increase in cost compared to the average refuge. However, the standard and quality of the cuisine, coupled with the hotel's amenities, exceeded all expectations. The breakfast was a standout feature—a generous buffet with an extensive selection of the freshest cheeses, appetizers, berries, assorted dairy products, fish, cereals and more. The delicious dish was so tempting that leaving the hotel became a difficult task. Beyond the culinary delights, the price also granted access to a swimming pool and sauna—a perfect remedy after a day of Dolomites trekking experiences.
Rifugio Alpe di Tires - Rifugio Salei
- elevation gain 594m
- elevation loss 803m
- 13km
Our evening retreat wasn't in an ordinary mountain refuge but in a hotel catering to skiers in the winter and hikers in the summer. Remarkably, the room rate included both dinner and breakfast. The experience was a real delight, considering the modest increase in cost compared to the average refuge. However, the standard and quality of the cuisine, coupled with the hotel's amenities, exceeded all expectations. The breakfast was a standout feature—a generous buffet with an extensive selection of the freshest cheeses, appetizers, berries, assorted dairy products, fish, cereals and more. The delicious dish was so tempting that leaving the hotel became a difficult task. Beyond the culinary delights, the price also granted access to a swimming pool and sauna—a perfect remedy after a day of Dolomites trekking experiences.
Day 3
Rifugio Salei - Rifugio Boe + loop to Via Ferrata
The start of our trek awaited just above the bus stop. Rest assured, losing the trail was an incredible feat; all paths in the Dolomites are carefully marked.
I would like to re-emphasize the importance of carefully assessing trail difficulty levels and ensuring you have the necessary equipment. On this particular day, our intended route was set to lead us to another refuge where we held a reservation - Utia Franz Kostner al Valun. However, an unexpected and challenging Via Ferrata loomed on the path, absent from our maps. Consequently, we changed our course, trekking an additional 2 km to Boe's refuge, where fortunately, available accommodations awaited.
Should you find yourself in a similar situation, there's no need for panic. In the mountains, a unshakable rule prevails: no one is left without shelter. Even if the refuge is at capacity, arrangements will be made to accommodate every weary traveler, be it a spare bed or a mattress. The key is to maintain your bearings and reach the nearest refuge.
Rifugio Salei - Rifugio Boe + loop to Via Ferrata
- elevation gain 1390m
- elevation loss 1080m
- 12km
The start of our trek awaited just above the bus stop. Rest assured, losing the trail was an incredible feat; all paths in the Dolomites are carefully marked.
I would like to re-emphasize the importance of carefully assessing trail difficulty levels and ensuring you have the necessary equipment. On this particular day, our intended route was set to lead us to another refuge where we held a reservation - Utia Franz Kostner al Valun. However, an unexpected and challenging Via Ferrata loomed on the path, absent from our maps. Consequently, we changed our course, trekking an additional 2 km to Boe's refuge, where fortunately, available accommodations awaited.
Should you find yourself in a similar situation, there's no need for panic. In the mountains, a unshakable rule prevails: no one is left without shelter. Even if the refuge is at capacity, arrangements will be made to accommodate every weary traveler, be it a spare bed or a mattress. The key is to maintain your bearings and reach the nearest refuge.
Day 4
Rifugio Boe - Valparola Refuge
The refuge itself exuded a delightful coziness. As usual, our package included dinner and breakfast, along with a private room tailored for our party of three. The shared shower and toilet facilities on the floor boasted the luxury of continuous hot water without any additional charges or limitations. Settled into our accommodations, we embarked on substantial radial explorations around the refuge and adjacent lake.
Throughout our Dolomite trek, I consciously curated a blend of trail complexities. Thanks to this thoughtful combination, stressful and difficult days alternated with easier ones, allowing us to fully enjoy the journey and panoramic views. As we ventured through the Alpine hiking in Dolomites, each day brought forth new discoveries and breathtaking landscapes.
Rifugio Boe - Valparola Refuge
- 5km
The refuge itself exuded a delightful coziness. As usual, our package included dinner and breakfast, along with a private room tailored for our party of three. The shared shower and toilet facilities on the floor boasted the luxury of continuous hot water without any additional charges or limitations. Settled into our accommodations, we embarked on substantial radial explorations around the refuge and adjacent lake.
Throughout our Dolomite trek, I consciously curated a blend of trail complexities. Thanks to this thoughtful combination, stressful and difficult days alternated with easier ones, allowing us to fully enjoy the journey and panoramic views. As we ventured through the Alpine hiking in Dolomites, each day brought forth new discoveries and breathtaking landscapes.
Day 5
Valparola Refuge - Rifugio Pomedes
From the elevated point, a breathtaking panorama unfolds, showcasing the majestic mountain range. Along the cliff, benches invite you to pause, smell the roses and soak in the stunning scenery. The day's trail, with a moderate level of difficulty, circumvented Mount Tofana di Rozes—an awe-inspiring locale where many tourists embark on separate radial treks.
It's worth noting that the path along the mountain is relatively narrow, occasionally loose underfoot, and in some sections, slightly eroded. Vigilance is key to safely navigating these areas. Approaching our designated overnight stay, we made a pit stop at Rifugio Angelo Dibona for lunch—a charming spot with friendly staff serving incredibly tasty pasta and desserts. A culinary indulgence that perfectly capped off a day spent traversing the mountains. In the Dolomites, from our experience, cafes and restaurants consistently delivered exceptional taste, with a focus on fresh ingredients.
A crucial point to consider is that several maps guide trekkers to Rifugio Pomedes via Via Ferrata. If you're not prepared for this, choose the route through Rifugio Angelo Dibona. After descending from Mount Tofana di Rozes, make your way to Rifugio Angelo Dibona, then follow the signs upward to Rifugio Pomedes. This ensures a more approachable and enjoyable trek for those not equipped for Via Ferrata challenges.
Regarding the refuge, it adheres to the classic model: the price covers accommodation, dinner, and breakfast. Our preference led us to a room equipped with its own bathroom, boasting the luxury of free unlimited hot water, and a toilet. However, the refuge presents a variety of options to cater to diverse preferences, offering both private rooms and shared dormitories. In my view, the private rooms hold a distinct advantage. Positioned in the upper section of the refuge, they provide a more temperate environment compared to the dorms located below, where the atmosphere tends to be cooler.
Valparola Refuge - Rifugio Pomedes
- elevation gain 425m
- elevation loss 900m
- 9km
From the elevated point, a breathtaking panorama unfolds, showcasing the majestic mountain range. Along the cliff, benches invite you to pause, smell the roses and soak in the stunning scenery. The day's trail, with a moderate level of difficulty, circumvented Mount Tofana di Rozes—an awe-inspiring locale where many tourists embark on separate radial treks.
It's worth noting that the path along the mountain is relatively narrow, occasionally loose underfoot, and in some sections, slightly eroded. Vigilance is key to safely navigating these areas. Approaching our designated overnight stay, we made a pit stop at Rifugio Angelo Dibona for lunch—a charming spot with friendly staff serving incredibly tasty pasta and desserts. A culinary indulgence that perfectly capped off a day spent traversing the mountains. In the Dolomites, from our experience, cafes and restaurants consistently delivered exceptional taste, with a focus on fresh ingredients.
A crucial point to consider is that several maps guide trekkers to Rifugio Pomedes via Via Ferrata. If you're not prepared for this, choose the route through Rifugio Angelo Dibona. After descending from Mount Tofana di Rozes, make your way to Rifugio Angelo Dibona, then follow the signs upward to Rifugio Pomedes. This ensures a more approachable and enjoyable trek for those not equipped for Via Ferrata challenges.
Regarding the refuge, it adheres to the classic model: the price covers accommodation, dinner, and breakfast. Our preference led us to a room equipped with its own bathroom, boasting the luxury of free unlimited hot water, and a toilet. However, the refuge presents a variety of options to cater to diverse preferences, offering both private rooms and shared dormitories. In my view, the private rooms hold a distinct advantage. Positioned in the upper section of the refuge, they provide a more temperate environment compared to the dorms located below, where the atmosphere tends to be cooler.
And thus concluded the initial leg of our expedition. The following morning, we descended to the quaint village of Pocol, situated near the town of Cortina d'Ampezzo. Here, we dedicated the ensuing days to embarking on smaller radial excursions. Stay tuned for an upcoming article where I delve into the specifics of the chosen routes and how to locate them.
Start planning your trip!
- Accommodation. From cosy guesthouses in the mountains to lavish beachside hotels, there’s plenty of accommodation options to suit every style of traveller and budget. Check accommodation rates here!
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